I feel kind of obligated to chime in for the defence of game reviews, being a game reviewer. There's certainly a whole bunch of bad ones for sure, but I still think there are a few critics out there who try to bring a bit of class and dignity to the field (I certainly try, at least).
Plus, while the internet made it far easier for biased nutcases to shout about how great/awful something is for paragraphs, it also allowed for a huge field of amateur critics to pick from. If you can find a few reviewers you think are really great, it helps to keep everything from seeming so marketed and shallow. I know I certainly wouldn't be doing what I get to do without the internet, so I'm kind of thankful for the amateur soapbox it offers, even if the vast majority of would be Youtube critics abuse it.
Nice article by the way, though it came across as a bit too abstract at times. I almost wish they had interviewed a game critic as well, but it probably would have ruined the subtlety.