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I'm only about six hours or so in (I finished up most of the initial quests and just met with Pharod), but I haven't installed any mods. Is the game significantly better with them? So much so that you'd recommend starting over for them?
This question / problem has been solved by bevinatorimage
I played without mods and didn't regret it.
The mods don't really add anything meaningful to the game. They fix some bugs, and add some new content, but there's no over-reaching mods that are *better* than the original game.

I did my first playthrough totally vanilla, and enjoyed it immensely. On later runs, I added the widescreen mod (just up to 800x600), a couple of the fixes from the Fixpack in the sticky, and a couple of the Unfinished Business things from the sticky. They added a small amount of depth to the game but honestly it was perfectly fine the way it was.

There are some games (BG1, IWD2, Oblivion) that benefit greatly from installing a metric ton of mods. Planescape is not one of them.