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coastie65: Hey Audrey, I hate to say this, but your choice of PSU's hasn't been good. Those things tend to use cheap components such as capacitors and such. You would do much better with Corsair, Seasonic, or Antec to name a few.
I don't agree with that. Just because those brands are not common in your part of the world, doesn't mean they are bad. Those are not standard PSU's, but quality brands. Sure, I'd like to have a Seasonic, but those are extremely pricey over here, they cost a third more in € than you pay in $. And that doesn't even guarantee they are better.
Also, with that video card, the over all wattage of the PSU isn't too much of an issue, but you should concentrate more on what the PSU offers on the +12v rail(s).
648W of 700W on the +12V rails enough? I thought it was.
Go find test reports and then prove me wrong.
And I know that a lot of gamers are quite wasteful with their power consumption, as long as everything runs high end, but I can't and won't afford that, so high energy efficency is also a huge factor.
Look at your Motherboard and see if there is any scorching and if the caps are swollen. If not, then it should be fine and you probably have a failing PSU.
Eeek, that would NOT be fine, the PSU's still new.
As I said in the last post right above, there's no scorching, but other issues, not the PSU. But thanks anyway for your interest and comments.

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jlibster: Thanks Coastie65 for helping me understand why Audrey had so many problems. I didn't assume the quality of the PSU's as I'm not in Germany and never saw/hear of them whichI thought was odd as I research a fair number of PSU's. I kept quiet, I strongly suspected what you have said out loud about the capacitors (common corner cutting area of cheap PSU's). I learned after my first year building machines that the PSU is the most important part not to skimp on; the cases I order for my very first set had these "el cheapo" power supplies included. thought a power supply was a power supply...until many of them came back with burned out PSU's within 12-24 months (I give 2 year warranties). I replaced them all with no fuss as it wasn't the buyer's fault, but it was costly. That really reinforced the point, that a little extra cost early can prevent a LOT of pain later.
Whoa, hold your horses! Why it true, when he assumes, but what I know, is not? I don't buy crappy PSU's, I buy quality stuff. Again I say: find test reports and prove me wrong.

Also, why is it true, what another one says, after I say something completely different? I already said that the PSU problems seem to be the symptom, not the cause. But of course I will only be able to confirm that, after I changed the other parts.
Post edited May 29, 2011 by AudreyWinter
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coastie65: Hey Audrey, I hate to say this, but your choice of PSU's hasn't been good. Those things tend to use cheap components such as capacitors and such. You would do much better with Corsair, Seasonic, or Antec to name a few. Also, with that video card, the over all wattage of the PSU isn't too much of an issue, but you should concentrate more on what the PSU offers on the +12v rail(s). Look at your Motherboard and see if there is any scorching and if the caps are swollen. If not, then it should be fine and you probably have a failing PSU. I don't know what is available over there in Germany, but have worked with some in the UK with components.
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jlibster: Thanks Coastie65 for helping me understand why Audrey had so many problems. I didn't assume the quality of the PSU's as I'm not in Germany and never saw/hear of them whichI thought was odd as I research a fair number of PSU's. I kept quiet, I strongly suspected what you have said out loud about the capacitors (common corner cutting area of cheap PSU's). I learned after my first year building machines that the PSU is the most important part not to skimp on; the cases I order for my very first set had these "el cheapo" power supplies included. thought a power supply was a power supply...until many of them came back with burned out PSU's within 12-24 months (I give 2 year warranties). I replaced them all with no fuss as it wasn't the buyer's fault, but it was costly. That really reinforced the point, that a little extra cost early can prevent a LOT of pain later.
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osinsh: Can't download Trolls even after a patch. Giving me "error writing file".
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jlibster: you don't download Trolls after the patch! The Trolls DLC is already included!! If you are getting an error, you need to clear out registry entries that tell the downloader to get file. suggest you export your saves, uninstall Witcher 2, manually remove all directories and registry entries and then reinstall with no Internet, then install the patch. Everying should work well after that. I have an 8 point list of instructions in another forum that outlines for noobies exactly how to do a completely CLEAN reinstall of witcher 2 and patch which I've been told works without a hitch. I'll post it again here:

If you are nervous with removing exact values try this (backup/export your save first if you have any):
1. Uninstall Witcher 2.
2. delete any witcher 2 folders in "program files" (may be under GOG) the uninstaller left behind.
3. Edit the registry and remove these two registry folders:
HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\CD Projekt RED\The Witcher 2
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\CD Projekt RED\The Witcher 2 (if this exists)
4. disconnect your computer from the Internet (this prevents any autoupdates by the autoinstaller)
5. Reinstall Witcher 2
6. install the 1.1 patch manually
7. reconnect the Internet to your computer.
8. Play......
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osinsh: Can't download Trolls even after a patch. Giving me "error writing file".
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jlibster:
Hey jlibster, I am a Moderator over at pcworld.com and that is something we try to impress upon the folks of how important the PSU is. Usually the PSU that come bundled with cases are not all that great, so best to avoid the bundling altogether. Trying to find a decent PSU in the UK for someone is not easy as I am not familiar with most of what I see, although they do have some familiar names. I was trying to find something in Germany a while ago, but came up short ( besides, my German is not that good these days ). As to the quality of the PSUs, it isn't confined to Germany, but is just a matter of being a careful shopper and doing your homework. There are good ones and bad ones everywhere. A lot of folks go out nad buy some huge wattage PSU when they get a new big card and it isn't necessary. For most, 550w - 600w will do fine for the system needs, For big high powered card, I want at least 25a on the +12v rail though. I am running an Intel Core i7 960 with ati HD5770 Card WD 1TB Caviar Black Hdd plus optical drive,and whatever else. Anyway, my system is using between 400w and 425w and I have an 850w Corsair PSU in here. It is overkill, even if I went to Crossfire. It does have 72a on the +12v rail though. The 650w corsair I have in the other desktop ( again overkill ) has 52a on the +12v rail. I hope you understand where I am going with this. The point is that the PSU wattage isn't as important as the amps on the rail that feed the video card and getting a good quality PSU is important. Might cost a biot more, but worth it in the end.
68 pages
1353 replies...do you people really think the walls of text are being read anymore ?...lol
Post edited May 29, 2011 by ArnoldJ.Rimmer
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coastie65: Hey Audrey, I hate to say this, but your choice of PSU's hasn't been good. Those things tend to use cheap components such as capacitors and such. You would do much better with Corsair, Seasonic, or Antec to name a few.
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AudreyWinter: I don't agree with that. Just because those brands are not common in your part of the world, doesn't mean they are bad. Those are not standard PSU's, but quality brands. Sure, I'd like to have a Seasonic, but those are extremely pricey over here, they cost a third more in € than you pay in $. And that doesn't even guarantee they are better.
Also, with that video card, the over all wattage of the PSU isn't too much of an issue, but you should concentrate more on what the PSU offers on the +12v rail(s).
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AudreyWinter: 648W of 700W on the +12V rails enough? I thought it was.
Go find test reports and then prove me wrong.
And I know that a lot of gamers are quite wasteful with their power consumption, as long as everything runs high end, but I can't and won't afford that, so high energy efficency is also a huge factor.
Look at your Motherboard and see if there is any scorching and if the caps are swollen. If not, then it should be fine and you probably have a failing PSU.
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AudreyWinter: Eeek, that would NOT be fine, the PSU's still new.
As I said in the last post right above, there's no scorching, but other issues, not the PSU. But thanks anyway for your interest and comments.

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jlibster: Thanks Coastie65 for helping me understand why Audrey had so many problems. I didn't assume the quality of the PSU's as I'm not in Germany and never saw/hear of them whichI thought was odd as I research a fair number of PSU's. I kept quiet, I strongly suspected what you have said out loud about the capacitors (common corner cutting area of cheap PSU's). I learned after my first year building machines that the PSU is the most important part not to skimp on; the cases I order for my very first set had these "el cheapo" power supplies included. thought a power supply was a power supply...until many of them came back with burned out PSU's within 12-24 months (I give 2 year warranties). I replaced them all with no fuss as it wasn't the buyer's fault, but it was costly. That really reinforced the point, that a little extra cost early can prevent a LOT of pain later.
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AudreyWinter: Whoa, hold your horses! Why it true, when he assumes, but what I know, is not? I don't buy crappy PSU's, I buy quality stuff. Again I say: find test reports and prove me wrong.

Also, why is it true, what another one says, after I say something completely different? I already said that the PSU problems seem to be the symptom, not the cause. But of course I will only be able to confirm that, after I changed the other parts.
Hi. I wasn't passing judgement per se on the Hdds, but from my experience it pointed to inferior components and a failing Hdd. If you say the thing is fine, then that is Ok, as you seem to know your way around these things, I was just offering some thoughts. I didn't mean for that to sound as if I was being critical, and having looked at my post, I suppose it could be taken that way. For that I offer my apologies. As I said, it seems that you know your way around these things. As for me, I moderate at pcworld.com and I use the same user name and avatar over there and work with this kind of thing dailey ( when not chasing after Spammers and Trolls ). You are right, I am not familiar with the brands over there. I tried to find some German stores online to see what they offered, but didn't get far. It would have been a bit difficult as my German is not so good any more due to lack of usuage for so long ( my Aunt was born and raised in Frankfurt ). What I was referring to on the +12v rails was not the wattage but the amps. Although a card may specify 18a on the +12v rail. that doesn't mean it wil hold up when things get intense. I prefer to have at least 25a on the +12v rail as it will do well with most, if not all cards ( I have 72a with the PSU in here, which is a bit of overkill ). Anyay, again, I offer my apologies and I hope you get your problem solved and back into the game soon.
Post edited May 29, 2011 by coastie65
Okay, I went back and reread your post. Intially your problem was with the PSUs, which sent abck and got replacements for and ultimately ended with the same issue then this:
"Bought a Xigmatek go green 700W, which promised I could build a forest in my pc. Well, I had a bit of a nice Witcher forest there for a while.;)
That went okay for a while, until a couple days ago, when I thought I'd notice that specific smell again and yesterday it suddenly smelled like burning/melting plastic. That's the point where I shut it down and put it as far away from me as possible. Gonna have to take it to pieces today and see if I find anything. If not, that's that for me and gaming, because there's absolutely no money left for a new computer. And it IS almost new with a quad@3.2GHz and GTX460, I can't think what I'd NEED to upgrade right now. " I am familiar with the Ximatec brand and it is, to put it bluntly, junk. I'm not trying to sound offensive, but I do have experience with this stuff as well. As I said in my previos post, you can check me out at pcworld.com as I use the same User name and avatar over there.
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coastie65: Hi. I wasn't passing judgement per se on the Hdds, but from my experience it pointed to inferior components and a failing Hdd. If you say the thing is fine, then that is Ok, as you seem to know your way around these things, I was just offering some thoughts. I didn't mean for that to sound as if I was being critical, and having looked at my post, I suppose it could be taken that way. For that I offer my apologies. As I said, it seems that you know your way around these things. As for me, I moderate at pcworld.com and I use the same user name and avatar over there and work with this kind of thing dailey ( when not chasing after Spammers and Trolls ). You are right, I am not familiar with the brands over there. I tried to find some German stores online to see what they offered, but didn't get far. It would have been a bit difficult as my German is not so good any more due to lack of usuage for so long ( my Aunt was born and raised in Frankfurt ). What I was referring to on the +12v rails was not the wattage but the amps. Although a card may specify 18a on the +12v rail. that doesn't mean it wil hold up when things get intense. I prefer to have at least 25a on the +12v rail as it will do well with most, if not all cards ( I have 72a with the PSU in here, which is a bit of overkill ). Anyay, again, I offer my apologies and I hope you get your problem solved and back into the game soon.
It's all okay. :) Although we never spoke about hdd's before (abbr. for harddisc for me)? Those are good, don't jinx them! ;)
PSU amps: 30 per +12V. I don't know too much about the energy part of the issue, but I do read tests and compare things.

I guess the thing that got me was you telling me with such conviction that I bought crap, without any information about my crap. And then that kind of conviction gets others on the wagon as well, haha. But it's sorted out, I guess.

I'm not so good at German anymore as well, since I use English all day. ;)
Anyway, I'll see about that cooler and fan business tomorrow and hope that I'll soon have a real computer again (glad for the notebook though, so I'm not cut off from the world, heh).

Or not sorted out....
I don't want to check you out, I check my crap out.
Post edited May 29, 2011 by AudreyWinter
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coastie65: Hi. I wasn't passing judgement per se on the Hdds, but from my experience it pointed to inferior components and a failing Hdd. If you say the thing is fine, then that is Ok, as you seem to know your way around these things, I was just offering some thoughts. I didn't mean for that to sound as if I was being critical, and having looked at my post, I suppose it could be taken that way. For that I offer my apologies. As I said, it seems that you know your way around these things. As for me, I moderate at pcworld.com and I use the same user name and avatar over there and work with this kind of thing dailey ( when not chasing after Spammers and Trolls ). You are right, I am not familiar with the brands over there. I tried to find some German stores online to see what they offered, but didn't get far. It would have been a bit difficult as my German is not so good any more due to lack of usuage for so long ( my Aunt was born and raised in Frankfurt ). What I was referring to on the +12v rails was not the wattage but the amps. Although a card may specify 18a on the +12v rail. that doesn't mean it wil hold up when things get intense. I prefer to have at least 25a on the +12v rail as it will do well with most, if not all cards ( I have 72a with the PSU in here, which is a bit of overkill ). Anyay, again, I offer my apologies and I hope you get your problem solved and back into the game soon.
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AudreyWinter: It's all okay. :) Although we never spoke about hdd's before (abbr. for harddisc for me)? Those are good, don't jinx them! ;)
PSU amps: 30 per +12V. I don't know too much about the energy part of the issue, but I do read tests and compare things.

I guess the thing that got me was you telling me with such conviction that I bought crap, without any information about my crap. And then that kind of conviction gets others on the wagon as well, haha. But it's sorted out, I guess.

I'm not so good at German anymore as well, since I use English all day. ;)
Anyway, I'll see about that cooler and fan business tomorrow and hope that I'll soon have a real computer again (glad for the notebook though, so I'm not cut off from the world, heh).

Or not sorted out....
I don't want to check you out, I check my crap out.
30a is good on the rail. I'm sure you'll get things sorted out in good time. I have been at it for 4+ months trying to unlock the BiOS in this thing off & on and so far nothing ( at least I haven't bricked it ). I am familiar with the xigmatec PSU, and it is inferior, although there are some that are worse I guess. Yeah, Hdd is shorthand for hard drive and I screwed up as I meant PSU. As for the checking out business, I meant it in regards as to whether there was any question on whether or not I knew what I was talking about. I try to give people good answers to their problems and good to some lengths to make sure they are good answers. Anyway, as I said, I'm sure you will get things sorted out.
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coastie65: Hey Audrey, I hate to say this, but your choice of PSU's hasn't been good. Those things tend to use cheap components such as capacitors and such. You would do much better with Corsair, Seasonic, or Antec to name a few.
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AudreyWinter: I don't agree with that. Just because those brands are not common in your part of the world, doesn't mean they are bad. Those are not standard PSU's, but quality brands. Sure, I'd like to have a Seasonic, but those are extremely pricey over here, they cost a third more in € than you pay in $. And that doesn't even guarantee they are better.
Also, with that video card, the over all wattage of the PSU isn't too much of an issue, but you should concentrate more on what the PSU offers on the +12v rail(s).
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AudreyWinter: 648W of 700W on the +12V rails enough? I thought it was.
Go find test reports and then prove me wrong.
And I know that a lot of gamers are quite wasteful with their power consumption, as long as everything runs high end, but I can't and won't afford that, so high energy efficency is also a huge factor.
Look at your Motherboard and see if there is any scorching and if the caps are swollen. If not, then it should be fine and you probably have a failing PSU.
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AudreyWinter: Eeek, that would NOT be fine, the PSU's still new.
As I said in the last post right above, there's no scorching, but other issues, not the PSU. But thanks anyway for your interest and comments.

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jlibster: Thanks Coastie65 for helping me understand why Audrey had so many problems. I didn't assume the quality of the PSU's as I'm not in Germany and never saw/hear of them whichI thought was odd as I research a fair number of PSU's. I kept quiet, I strongly suspected what you have said out loud about the capacitors (common corner cutting area of cheap PSU's). I learned after my first year building machines that the PSU is the most important part not to skimp on; the cases I order for my very first set had these "el cheapo" power supplies included. thought a power supply was a power supply...until many of them came back with burned out PSU's within 12-24 months (I give 2 year warranties). I replaced them all with no fuss as it wasn't the buyer's fault, but it was costly. That really reinforced the point, that a little extra cost early can prevent a LOT of pain later.
avatar
AudreyWinter: Whoa, hold your horses! Why it true, when he assumes, but what I know, is not? I don't buy crappy PSU's, I buy quality stuff. Again I say: find test reports and prove me wrong.

Also, why is it true, what another one says, after I say something completely different? I already said that the PSU problems seem to be the symptom, not the cause. But of course I will only be able to confirm that, after I changed the other parts.
Yes I know that Seasonic's are more expensive. I paid $120 USD for my Seasonic 650W X-Series Gold standard modular power supply. The Gold+ Rated power suppliers have around 90% efficiency. Less resistance also reduces "wear/tear" on PSU's I Believe. So when I get a 650W power supply at that rating is a lot closer to 650W than the $40 wonder. Anyway, I just think if you are going to make an expensive gaming system you may as well go top grade on the PSU.
Post edited May 29, 2011 by jlibster
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jlibster: Anyway, I just think if you are going to make an expensive gaming system you may as well go top grade on the PSU.
Misunderstanding? I am not currently building a system, I'm trying to fix my "old" system, but without any money on my hands. So I take what I can get for a reasonable price and I am still convinced that I could do much worse than that Xigmatec with 85% efficiency. And this was an emergency purchase, too. It's a different thing when I plan on something, I do want a modular Seasonic someday, but not now. Now I want to fix the damn thing and I hereby declare that the PSU is NOT the cause of my current predicament. ;)
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jlibster: Anyway, I just think if you are going to make an expensive gaming system you may as well go top grade on the PSU.
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AudreyWinter: Misunderstanding? I am not currently building a system, I'm trying to fix my "old" system, but without any money on my hands. So I take what I can get for a reasonable price and I am still convinced that I could do much worse than that Xigmatec with 85% efficiency. And this was an emergency purchase, too. It's a different thing when I plan on something, I do want a modular Seasonic someday, but not now. Now I want to fix the damn thing and I hereby declare that the PSU is NOT the cause of my current predicament. ;)
One Question? Do you have a voltage regulator (or UPS with AVR) on your computer? I've traced a number of quality power supplies going dead (but protecting the MB and connected parts) as a result of brownouts. You may be familiar with the term. If your building lights dim or flicker frequently, your building power is not entirely stable. Some UPS devices have AVR (automatic voltage regulars) in them but many do not. A voltage regulator is between $30-50 USD. I keep all my computers and electronics behind one. (I keep 3 such regulators) Few times a week the alarms go off when people turn on air conditioners or electric heaters. I credit these for keeping my LCD TV, Stereo and computers safe and give an extra warranty on my computers with Proof of posession of an AVR.
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jlibster: One Question? Do you have a voltage regulator (or UPS with AVR) on your computer? I've traced a number of quality power supplies going dead (but protecting the MB and connected parts) as a result of brownouts. You may be familiar with the term. If your building lights dim or flicker frequently, your building power is not entirely stable. Some UPS devices have AVR (automatic voltage regulars) in them but many do not. A voltage regulator is between $30-50 USD. I keep all my computers and electronics behind one. (I keep 3 such regulators) Few times a week the alarms go off when people turn on air conditioners or electric heaters. I credit these for keeping my LCD TV, Stereo and computers safe and give an extra warranty on my computers with Proof of posession of an AVR.
Well, we usually don't use such power hungry contraptions like electric heaters and AC over here, so power is pretty stable and as for the little flickers, even my PSU should be able to handle that (has five kinds of safeties regarding voltage fluctuations). And my plug strip has a few of it's own, not a full UPS, though.
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jlibster: Anyway, I just think if you are going to make an expensive gaming system you may as well go top grade on the PSU.
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AudreyWinter: Misunderstanding? I am not currently building a system, I'm trying to fix my "old" system, but without any money on my hands. So I take what I can get for a reasonable price and I am still convinced that I could do much worse than that Xigmatec with 85% efficiency. And this was an emergency purchase, too. It's a different thing when I plan on something, I do want a modular Seasonic someday, but not now. Now I want to fix the damn thing and I hereby declare that the PSU is NOT the cause of my current predicament. ;)
Ok. Probably not a PSU issue, as they do last for a while. You are right, the better quality stuff does tend to be pricier and that Seasonic will be a good choice when the budget permits. I wish I had gone modular, but didn't. I may be missing something somewhere in your posts. I am aware of the smells, but not any performance issues you may have had. Do you use a utility to monitor the temps in there? That would be helpful. HW monitor by CPUZ is a good one and there is a FREE version. Without knowing excating what was occuring ( Slow Boot, No Boot, Slowing Down, & so forth, it is really hard to give an idea of what to look for. I know about the smells, but if you don't see anything amiss ( such as melted parts ) on a visual inspection, and it seems to be running fine, short of being able to check the temps to what if anything may be running hot, then it is probably fine. There is a whole host of things that can cause the smells, but as long as the computer is functioning normally then probably not an issue, but something to stay mindful of. I do know that over here at least, the PSUs have a switch on the back to switch the voltages. We use 120v over here out of the recepticle and I believe over there it is 220v - 240v. You have to make sure that switch is set to the correct voltage. I'm sure you know all of this, but thought I'd mention it anyway. Other than the smells you mentioned, I do not know how the computer was acting, which would have been helpful.
Ok. I forgot about this. This is a simple way to test the Motherboard. I usually pull it out and set it on a cardboard box to do this, but it isn't really necessary. Unhook everything from the motherboard except the CPU ( processor ) and it;s cooling stuff, just use one stick of memory and the vIdeo Card and have it hooked to the monitor, nothing else. That is it, just those few items ( it won't boot as it isn't supposed to ). Hit the start buttton and should post to the first splash screen and you will get a single beep ( if you can hear it ). If it does, then it passed post and the motherboard is fine.
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jlibster: One Question? Do you have a voltage regulator (or UPS with AVR) on your computer? I've traced a number of quality power supplies going dead (but protecting the MB and connected parts) as a result of brownouts. You may be familiar with the term. If your building lights dim or flicker frequently, your building power is not entirely stable. Some UPS devices have AVR (automatic voltage regulars) in them but many do not. A voltage regulator is between $30-50 USD. I keep all my computers and electronics behind one. (I keep 3 such regulators) Few times a week the alarms go off when people turn on air conditioners or electric heaters. I credit these for keeping my LCD TV, Stereo and computers safe and give an extra warranty on my computers with Proof of posession of an AVR.
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AudreyWinter: Well, we usually don't use such power hungry contraptions like electric heaters and AC over here, so power is pretty stable and as for the little flickers, even my PSU should be able to handle that (has five kinds of safeties regarding voltage fluctuations). And my plug strip has a few of it's own, not a full UPS, though.
I've found power strips useless unless you are struck by a bolt of lightening or just need more sockets. I've been surprised how little things like CPU's and motherboard tolorate change in amps of current. Hence the AVR's I use. Many people mistakenly think a Power strip protects from brownouts or even small surges. They don't. Brownout protectors in parcitular require specific circuits not present in any standard PSU. I've seen a few VERY expensive power supplies ($200+) with AVR's built in at only 350W, but its cheaper and more flexible to just get a separate AVR for me. You do raise a valid point about North America's wasteful cooling/heating products en masse. When I lived in Japan I didn't have such things. It is entirely possible that the brownout are much less frequent in Germany than North America. Although you do mention the "little flickers". Those "little flickers" burnt out the motherboard (Capcitors totally fried). Buyer confirmed it happened when the lights "flickered and dimmed for a few seconds". He had an Emermax power supply at the time. He too had a power strip. That is when I started looking into brownouts and how to guard again them. Again, those things I find useless without a lightening bolt. Those are my thoughts and experience.
Post edited May 29, 2011 by jlibster
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coastie65: [...]I may be missing something somewhere in your posts. I am aware of the smells, but not any performance issues you may have had. [...]
Ummm.... no, no performance issues, the smells are the issue. And it's not fine when the pc runs without fault as long as it smells. The information you lacked here is that it's part of my health condition that I can't tolerate strong smells. Or any smells that linger for too long. But since I can't live without my pc and games, things like that inspire a lot of creativity... and frequent breakdowns...

But anyway, I think I finally found what I was searching for for months and can fix that, but the melting smell is new, gotta nip that in the bud at once! And hope that the PSU isn't too contaminated already to keep running. There's no switch, btw. European only production, I guess.

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jlibster: I've found power strips useless unless you are struck by a bolt of lightening or just need more sockets.
The power strips are mostly for convenience, as I can switch off everything at once. And of course for a pc plus peripherie, you need some more sockets.
And as I said, the PSU has five safeties and the only PSU death I experienced until now, are blown ELKOs. On very different brands, too.
Post edited May 29, 2011 by AudreyWinter