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Psyringe: Btw, when looking for a new PSU, look closely at the connectors that a given model provides. Connectors for mainboards and graphics cards have changed over the years. Most high-quality PSUs do provide a good selection of connectors (and have mainboard plugs with a removable part, so they fit in both the two latest mainboard sockets), but it's better to check it in advance.
Thanks for the advice, but I'll probably just order and sent back ;-).

We don't have those EU laws for nothing ;-)

What power range should I go for? How many W?
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Psyringe: Btw, when looking for a new PSU, look closely at the connectors that a given model provides. Connectors for mainboards and graphics cards have changed over the years. Most high-quality PSUs do provide a good selection of connectors (and have mainboard plugs with a removable part, so they fit in both the two latest mainboard sockets), but it's better to check it in advance.
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SimonG: Thanks for the advice, but I'll probably just order and sent back ;-).

We don't have those EU laws for nothing ;-)

What power range should I go for? How many W?
I personally bought one about 150-200 watts more than my existing one, just to be safe, and have some added power in case I added or upgraded anything in the future
Post edited October 29, 2012 by Zoltan999
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SimonG: What power range should I go for? How many W?
Depends on the rest of your hardware.

Total Wattage is currently less important than the power on the 12V rail. That's the rail where all currently power-critical devices (CPU, graphics card) draw their power from.

There are some PSU calculators on the net, but I haven't checked them for a long time, so I can't tell how reliable they are. Perhaps try three or four and compare the results. Or list your hardware here and let the electronics wizards figure something out. ;)
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SimonG: What power range should I go for? How many W?
To accurately give an answer, you'd have to know the draw of each of your expansion devices, CPU, etc.

Safe bet- look at the back of your current power supply and look for the wattage listed on it. Then, purchase one with that or above. And do as Psyringe stated- look at the connectors you need, reviews of products, etc. Power supplies affect everything in your computer, so you want a quality one.

If your computer is old and uses different connectors, you may be able to find adapters to work. I had to do that when building/upgrading an old computer. But the preference will to get something that is native to your computer's configuration.

*** edit- make sure you check how many things it can power up, and the connectors needed. Not much is worse than realizing you got a power supply that can power up everything but one device in your computer.
Post edited October 29, 2012 by Braussie
This is my current pick

http://www.amazon.de/Antec-EA-650-Platinum-PC-Netzteil-Watt/dp/B007B50TAS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351535676&sr=8-1-fkmr0

What do you guys think?

As for the hardware:

I have an

AMD Phantom 64+ (I think, my neatly ordered list of hardware is on my dead PC)

1024MB Gainward GeForce GTX 560 Ti Phantom Aktiv...

And the usual stuff 1 HD 1 DVD drive etc.
This is scary as hell to me because I am going home with no money soon and a dead computer would killllllllllll me.

Anyway, the advice in this thread seems proper. I have nothing to add.
This is one problem lawyer's skills won't fix :p.
Looks like a good pick to me. Quality brand, large amount of connectors, the two connectors that _could_ pose compatibility problems have removable parts (so they should be compatible with older mainboards), and two separate +12V rails with lots of power.

You could probably save some money by dropping the wattage (your current system won't need 650W), but then again, the PSU has 3 years of warranty and ought to last a while. And as others have noted, it's often a good idea to have some spare capacity in case you want to upgrade parts later. (And in case you wonder about maintenance costs, the spare capacity won't cause the PSU to draw more power until it's actually needed.)

It's been over a year since I last checked the PSU market though, and my knowledge of PSUs is far from complete, so I'd suggest to wait for another recommendation before buying it.
If you have a spare power cable, you might want to check that to make sure. I once bought a whole new case and PSU only to find out the cable was broken.
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Psyringe: It's been over a year since I last checked the PSU market though, and my knowledge of PSUs is far from complete, so I'd suggest to wait for another recommendation before buying it.
Nah, yours is good enough for me. :-)

Dropping the wattage only would save me a tenner most. Not worthy the potential headache.
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wpegg: If you have a spare power cable, you might want to check that to make sure. I once bought a whole new case and PSU only to find out the cable was broken.
I've already thought about this. I'll see it when the new PSU arrives.

Worst case, I send it back.

And on a related note, I am so happy this is 2012 and not 2002. I have my dissertation saved on a remote desktop. Holy crap. Push comes to shove, there is hardly any data lost in general. Personal data in spideroak, savegames on Steam/Origin cloud, personal windows settings saved with Win 8, bulk data (pictures, shows, music) on external HD.
Post edited October 29, 2012 by SimonG
You're getting good advice here. I've experienced similar circumstances on multiple occasions. It was always either the PSU or the MB. One of the times it was the motherboard, I worked and worked to try and diagnose what the problem was, including switching out the PSU. Come to find out, all I needed was a slightly closer inspection of the MB. The fan had come off of one of the onboard chipsets, I'm guessing the Northbridge (which modern computers don't have anymore). It had completely melted.

It disgusts me nowadays how difficult to near impossible it is to repair computers with faulty components. Motherboards have gotten particularly bad. They just don't make some components for more than a year or two. If you want an actual replacement for a 1 to 2 year old motherboard, well, it sucks to be you. You pretty much have to completely rebuild a new computer instead.
Post edited October 29, 2012 by yyahoo
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SimonG: I've already thought about this. I'll see it when the new PSU arrives.
O_o Why wait so long? The power cord should be the usual universal one, that most electronics use, including your monitor and (probably) your TV. Swap and check, and you should probably have a couple (dozens) more of those power cords lying around.
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SimonG: I've already thought about this. I'll see it when the new PSU arrives.
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JMich: O_o Why wait so long? The power cord should be the usual universal one, that most electronics use, including your monitor and (probably) your TV. Swap and check, and you should probably have a couple (dozens) more of those power cords lying around.
The only one I currently have is on my Monitor.

And at the moment I can work without any restriction (Monitor & remote keyboard on Laptop). But not play games.

You see where I am going ... ;-).
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SimonG: You see where I am going ... ;-).
Yeap. At the moment, neither your need for playing games nor your curiosity about what's at fault is greater than your wish to use your laptop, thus you say "Nah, I'll check it later".
My curiosity does wonder whether it's the cable though, but I think I can wait for an answer.
Hope you fix it soon, now I'm off to find a beer.
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JMich: My curiosity does wonder whether it's the cable though, but I think I can wait for an answer.
Hope you fix it soon, now I'm off to find a beer.
If it's the cable I will be a fool and you can pick a GOG. ;-P