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There's nothing odd at all about my setup. It's quite nice actually, and with my recent additions/replacements it's the best setup I've had in a very long time. :)
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Crosmando: I still use a 1080p monitor.
Nothing odd about that. I actually just got a new (and bigger) replacement for an older monitor: a 27" one with 1080P/144hz. No need to upgrade from my 2060 SUPER that way, while enjoying an overall smoother performance. ;)
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"What's odd about your Computer setup?"

I have a Competition Pro Joystick (USB-version) permanently plugged in.
And I even use it occasionally.
It's a PC, but it's not politically correct. ;)
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Judicat0r: Display 1 is connected to HDMI port 1.
Receiver is connected to MINI Displayport 1 --> adapter HDMI.
Display 2 is connected to DVI through a DVI --> SVGA adapter.
This reminds me that I recently had to "fight" with these different adapters.

I got a 23" monitor from my work (it was abandoned and probably going to recycling, so the boss said sure take it home if it helps there; using it now).

Anyway, at home I realized that it has only a DisplayPort, and a VGA port. I was expecting all monitors nowadays to have HDMI, but apparently not. The laptops I was going to use with it don't have Displayport (I used to have one laptop which did).

I went to buy a HDMI -> DP adapter or cable, and found one, cheap too. Great! Or so I thought. It didn't work, and after some googling I realized that apparently such cables are NOT bidirectional, ie. it is a DP -> HDMI cable, ie your computer has a DP and you want to connect it to a HDMI monitor. It wouldn't work the other way.

After some more googling, I figured out that apparently nowadays the "correct" way is to use a USB-C -> DP cable, providing you have an USB-C port with DP support. It seems I do with both my work laptop and my newest gaming laptop, as they work great with such a USB-C -> DP cable.

If I had just known all that beforehand so that lots of excessive googling would have been avoided. Especially the bit about figuring out that DP -> HDMI cables don't work both ways took some time, I didn't see any warnings anywhere etc. that it doesn't work the opposite way, or that there really aren't such HDMI -> DP cables (at least I didn't find any available, or then they were some quite expensive adapters, if there were any...).

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Crosmando: I still use a 1080p monitor.
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Darvond: So do I. In fact, I'm pretty sure this Dell P2417H is only designed exactly for 1080p.
I presume there are lots of like us. My both computer monitors are also 1080p and I specifically didn't want to pay any extra for anything more, as my intention is to play my games on that resolution anyway.

1080p is sharp enough for my weary eyes on 23"-32" monitors, and I prefer all my games running at constant 60+ fps, instead of sometimes (or often) dipping below that because of using some 4x or 8x super ultra hyper resolution. I want to avoid those as I use vsync (I've been thinking of buying some cheapo FreeSync (or G-Sync) monitor, but I have only one PC that probably supports it).

After all, I am playing on laptops, even if my latest laptop is pretty powerful.

If anything, I am a bit annoyed that my 65" OLED TV has higher resolution because the movies and TV shows I watch on it are 1080p only anyway, and when I boot my Raspberry Pi4 using that TV as the display, the boot text defaults to the highest resolution that the display offers, making the text unreadably tiny even on a huge 65" monitor. i guess there is some option in RPi4 to force it to use some lower resolution and/or bigger font in the boot texts...
Post edited January 05, 2022 by timppu
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timppu: [...]
After some more googling, I figured out that apparently nowadays the "correct" way is to use a USB-C -> DP cable, providing you have an USB-C port with DP support. It seems I do with both my work laptop and my newest gaming laptop, as they work great with such a USB-C -> DP cable.
[...]
I learned something new there, thaks for the heads up.
Here's something odd for you. I have a 12-13 old PC with a mini ITX motherboard, an Intel Atom D525 1.8GHz Dual Core and it has a GMA 3150 GPU, and even then you could barely do anything with it. The thing is, there is only 1 slot on the motherboard, a PCI slot, not PCIe or PCIe x1, not even AGP. So one time I was bored and started looking for PCI Graphic Cards and found and bought a Zotac Geforce GT 430 PCI card. And everything still runs, I guess because both the CPU and the Gfx card have passive cooling.

Here's a couple of stock photos of that card:
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timppu: [...]
After some more googling, I figured out that apparently nowadays the "correct" way is to use a USB-C -> DP cable, providing you have an USB-C port with DP support. It seems I do with both my work laptop and my newest gaming laptop, as they work great with such a USB-C -> DP cable.
[...]
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Judicat0r: I learned something new there, thaks for the heads up.
Yeah, I was wondering why I still see so many monitors with DisplayPort (and some not having e.g. HDMI at all, like this monitor I got from work), when I see hardly any laptops with DisplayPorts, and apparently there aren't much of HDMI -> DP cables or adapters available either, maybe there are technical reasons for that. DP -> HDMI cables, on the other hand, seem to be readily available and are cheap too, nothing special there.

Not sure if desktop PC graphics cards tend to have (also) DisplayPorts? I wasn't even sure why there are still both DP and HDMI ports at the same time. I used to think DP is on its way out similarly like DVI died out, but now I got the impression that DP is still alive and well, and is actually favored when you want to very high resolutions and refresh rates, adaptive vsync (VRR or GSync or FreeSync or whatever...), and HDMI has been lagging behind there?

So yeah, apparently USB-C -> DP is the correct (and cheapest) solution for those PCs that don't have a separate DisplayPort. Too bad I have one older laptop I wanted to use with this monitor as well, and it has HDMI but no USB-C (nor DP), so the only option to connect it to this monitor would be the VGA port.
Post edited January 06, 2022 by timppu
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Kobi-K: Here's something odd for you. I have a 12-13 old PC with a mini ITX motherboard, an Intel Atom D525 1.8GHz Dual Core and it has a GMA 3150 GPU, and even then you could barely do anything with it. The thing is, there is only 1 slot on the motherboard, a PCI slot, not PCIe or PCIe x1, not even AGP. So one time I was bored and started looking for PCI Graphic Cards and found and bought a Zotac Geforce GT 430 PCI card. And everything still runs, I guess because both the CPU and the Gfx card have passive cooling.

Here's a couple of stock photos of that card:
Reminds me of how I was able to update the storage in my small laptop. This particular laptop, which I believe cost me less than $150 when it was new, has an Intel Celeron, 4GB RAM, and 64GB of soldered-on storage. Thing it, it turns out that it also has a free slot for an M.2 SATA SSD (not NVMe!). Last year, I decided it could use a storage upgrade, so I bought a 500GB M.2 SATA SSD, installed it, and it works.

This particular computer also used to have an issue where the keyboard would suddenly stop working, and at one point the keyboard stopped working entirely. Fortunately, at that point I had the tools to open it up (just like when I added the extra storage), and somehow managed to fix the issue.

(Worth noting that I did this even after getting a more powerful laptop, with an AMD 3500U, 8GB RAM, and a 250GB NVMe drive. This big laptop can run certain games that my other computers can't, such as Mary Skelter: Nightmares and Pathfinder: Wrath of the Righteous.)
low rated
did i forget to mention it has no rgb at all
black is such a bad color btw , very hard to see what is where
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Orkhepaj: very hard to see what is where
Better spectacles, or maybe switch the light on of the room that one happens to be in ...?.
low rated
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Orkhepaj: very hard to see what is where
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Trooper1270: Better spectacles, or maybe switch the light on of the room that one happens to be in ...?.
if it was light colored, it would be easy to see everything in it , black is just bad , dunno why they prefer it for electronics
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Orkhepaj: did i forget to mention it has no rgb at all
black is such a bad color btw , very hard to see what is where
Same here, i'm anti LED though i have to admit, after rebuilding my whole pc, on the wall on the back side of the pc, red and blue lights were visible coming from within the case, this was actually quite nice.

I use the be quiet, i think 502, with solid panels, completely black, with some orange accents, that suit my national pride ;)
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Darvond: What else are those extra buttons for?
Whatever you like.

I have a mouse with 6 thumb buttons and 2 DPI buttons.

I have left DPI up and DPI down as is.

But the 6 thumb buttons, I configure per game. But if possible, I like to keep similar functions under the same buttons. One button I use mainly for quick attack/bash/melee/assassinate, one is reload, one is heal. The rest depends on the game. Could be holster, could be edit, depends on a game, really. In ESO I have all 6 of them them as ability 1-5 and ultimate.
I've got a TV Tuner card, which I only use for its IR receiver.
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osm: I've got a TV Tuner card, which I only use for its IR receiver.
If that tuner ever breaks down you can replace it cheaply with a bit of DIY. If the IR-receiver is the only function you need, that is.

You would need:
Arduino microcontroller development board (or a clone, such as Digispark -- Digispark is like €8.)
Any IR-receiver -- just the module. Costs cents.
USB-cable with the other end fitting the microcontroller board you have chosen.
Arduino software (or any other controller software so you can configure what the IR signals mean).
Any remote control.

Your computer would then consider the device as a standard keyboard and you can configure the remote control to do whatever you can do with a keyboard. After you have configured the dev board you should not need the controller software and you can plug the IR-receiver to any PC.

If you happen to have a RPi laying around you could just attach the IR-receiver directly to the RPi's IO pins and use LIRC to configure the remote and make the RPi send commands you want to run. This would require a bit of extra network configuration so the RPi can communicate with whatever PC you want to control.