What is breaking down, and was this the newer "hall effect" models?

I bought two 8bitdo Pro+ gamepads... was it two years ago? They've both been used pretty extensively, both by my kids on Nintendo Switch, and also by me with Windows games (e.g. now playing Legacy of Kain: Defiance with one).

The one my kids have mostly used has the right analog stick a bit acting up, ie. when checking the calibration in e.g. Windows, it appears as if it doesn't fully reach the left edge. It is so minor though that it doesn't seem to affect games much, or at all. I sometime wondered if it got a bit broken as my kids often dropped it to the ground.

The other that I mostly use is still working fine. Since they've worked so well for me both wired and wireless, I have an unopened Logitech F310 gamepad that I bought long before 8bitdo, as a spare gamepad. I feel the 8bitdo can do everything F310 can (DirectX and XInput modes), and more (can be used also wirelessly, compatible with Nintendo Switch too etc.).

If and when one of these breaks, or maybe even earlier, I was thinking of buying the newer "hall effect" version of Pro 2. With it the analog sticks are supposed to last longer than with these classic potentiometer versions.

So I was just wondering if you have the potentiometer or hall effect version of the pad, and whether your problems are specifically with the analog stick(s) dying?

8Bitdo has also those "Ultimate" gamepads that have hall effect analog sticks too, but I'd prefer Pro 2 because:

1. The Ultimate gamepad just seems too... bulky for my taste, similar to the XBox console gamepads. I don't have small hands (and not particularly big either for a man, average size I guess, suitable for my dick), but I've always preferred the PS2/Logitech F310 kind of sleekier and symmetrical gamepads, to bulky and asymmetrical XBox gamepads. Maybe I've just played more with PSX and PS2 gamepads and got accustomed to them.

2. In Pro 2 (wireless) the battery can be detached and replaced, which I think is great. With Windows, my Pro+ is connected with an USB-C cable so it doesn't need a battery, so I've taken the battery out both to make the gamepad a bit lighter, and conserve the battery. I think in Ultimate you can't at least easily remove the battery.

3. I am not quite sure, but it appeared to me Pro 2 has more, or at least different, compatibility modes?

Pro+ and I think Pro 2 has three compatibility modes, named:

Windows
Switch
Android

"Windows" means XInput at least.

"Switch" means Nintendo Switch, duh!

"Android" basically means the DirectX mode. Apparently it is then also the preferred mode in Android too when using the gamepad with Android devices. This mode, to my knowledge, also works with e.g. Raspberry Pi (running Linux).

Those are all the compatibility modes I care about, no need for e.g. PS5 compatibility as I don't have such a console. I happen to have a Nintendo Switch so that mode is good for it.

Four, labeled SADX. Switch, Apple, DInput, XInput. Exactly why an Apple mode is needed is a bit of a mystery as both DInput and XInput work anyway (depending on the game). Although, I do have one game where the rumble only works in Apple mode, for some reason. Also it seems to be recognized as a Playstation controller in that mode, for some other reason.

Anyway mine's 2 years old now and is as good as ever.

I've been using this one for I think around 2 years, and I've been quite pleased with it. Honestly, someone looking for weapon's grade pro-gamer shit will probaby find it kinda trash, but since I barely ever us a gamepad for PC (pretty much only for Lego games, really), all I wanted was for it to be cheap, relatively similar to the PS4 pad, and not to break sooner than I forget when exactly I bought it, and it fulfilled all three :D

Which gamepad was that? 8bitdo Pro 2?

At least on my Pro+ (SN30 something something), those three are the listed modes you see when running e.g. the 8bitdo Ultimate Software (the configuration program). I read somewhere that the Android mode is DirectX, and that is what it seems also on Windows, it acts like the older DirectX gamepads.

Oh yeah Pro 2 has a physical switch with which to select the mode, right? Does that switch seem durable, some have claimed it tends to break pretty easily, after which you can't change the mode anymore? (Then again Logitech F310 has a similar switch with only two modes, I don't recall hearing it would keep breaking...).

In Pro+ you change the mode either with certain button combinations I never remember (Start + Y was possibly the Switch mode, possibly...), and in Windows those button combinations don't seem to work at least right now, so if I want to change the mode within Windows, I need to run the Ultimate Software to change the mode. I think after reboot it always defaults to the XInput mode in Windows.

Got the Backbone (USB-C version). A few things about this:
* It's meant for a phone. While it would be theoretically possible to use it on a computer (if you can find a USB-C cable with a "female" port), it's really meant for a phone, as it goes on either side.
* It fits my Pixel 6a nicely. While playing on it, it feels like the whole construction is pretty sturdy.
* The back can be extended, which is useful both for inserting the phone and so that it can more easily fit in my purse. (With that said, the whole construction fits.)
* It's not as comfortable as using an Xbox 360 controller on a PC, but it's a lot better than trying to play with touchscreen controls. The construction feels a bit large for a handheld, but still isn't as big as the handheld that another digital game store made.
* The external USB-C port is used for charging the connected phone; it does not carry data. Also, the phone doesn't charge as fast this way.
* I have not tried the headphone jack.
* Cost of $99 might make it hard to justify for some.

They both have those four modes. The Pro2 has a simple switch on the back; the original Pro has an annoying method of holding down one of the four face buttons while turning it on, but they're the same modes. I'm not surprised the Windows software would omit the Apple mode, as there's barely a reason for it to exist even on Macs. It's fine. I can't see how it would break easily.

Ok I guess that makes sense. For some reason it still shows the Switch mode in Windows though.

I wonder if the mode change works only if you use the gamepad in wireless mode? I do recall being able to change the mode at least between Switch and XInput modes before by pushing the face buttons in the wireless mode, but now if I connect it to a Windows PC with a cable (no battery inside the gamepad), it doesn't seem to work and the only way to swap between DirectInput and XInput is to run the Ultimate software (IIRC by default it is in XInput mode when you connect it).

Oh well, at least it works, somehow. I will probably buy the hall effect version of Pro 2 at some point, even if these two Pro+ still work.

No, I've never used the Pro or Pro 2 wirelessly and switching modes works fine (with the face buttons on the Pro or the switch on the Pro 2).

I've only ever had the XBox 360 controller for my pc (not counting my old console gaming days, decades ago lol) and so far it has lasted me for more than 6 years and counting.

Worked with every GOG game I own (and some non-GOG ones as well) that supports gamepads, so far anyway.

Gurrently playing Grandia II AE right not (delisted on GOG). In fact, I just started playing last night hehe. Remapped the camera controls to the RS-L and RS-R under settings. Now my movement and camera turns are nice and fluid.

Still looks and feels as good as new. Of course, I do take good care of it and not throw it against walls and such for whatever reason. It also helps that I have a light touch and don't mash buttoms like my life depended on it. :)
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Just curious, what is this "hall effect" that people keep mentioning?
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See here.

Thanks. :)
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While the matter is fresh in everyone's minds, does anyone happen to know of a reasonable controller where spare components are available directly from the manufacturer? Specifically, I had the thumb sticks in mind, as it is the part that I wear out the most. I am a little tired of being reliant on second hand scraps or overpriced off-market replacements of dubious quality. Navigating search engines, video guides, or common merchants like Amazon has also become nigh impossible for such things.

Breaking down how? If it's stick drift, you can change the deadzones for the sticks in the 8bitdo software:

https://app.8bitdo.com/

My ultimate controller is almost a year old and I still haven't run into any issues.

Edit: It might be a good idea to also contact support.

Nevermind, old post.