Very useful and extremely sharp (both blades are sharpened). I mean, you probably wouldn't want to use them daily over a dedicated pair of scissors, but they work quite well.

That's more a matter of using a knife incorrectly. If you cut in the direction the blade faces, the blade should never fold in [1]. I'm not disputing the usefulness of locking blades, but in my lengthy experience (I've owned and still own many knives over the past 28 years), any time I've cut myself with a knife, I was doing something stupid with it.

Case-in-point : The two Victorionox I listed. The Workchamp XL has a locking main blade. The Swisschamp has a regular (non-locking) blade. I've used both extensively. I've never cut myself with with either.

On the other hand, when I was about 13, I was attempting (dumbly) to drill a hole using a butterfly knife in a piece of wood I was holding with the other hand. Unsurprisingly in retrospect, it eventually slipped and I gashed off the top of my left index finger knuckle. I still have a scar.

The lesson? Any knife can cut you if you use it the wrong way or do something stupid with it. A locking blade just allows for slightly more stupidity before it'll hurt you, but even that is conditional. Just look up some basic knife safety info and you should be fine ([1] This is knife safety number 2 along with never cut towards yourself, which is number 1).

True, but if you're practicing survival, to me it's important that you don't use the edge of the blade to strike a flint rod as it will eat your edge giving you a dull edge or even nicks in the edge which we all know takes longer to sharpen and smooth back out. I use the 90 degree back side of the blade to save the edge for actual work. If it doesn't come with one I use file to make a striking edge myself on the back of the blade. Either way, a fixed blade knife is best for this for handling and no possible chance of the lock failing but it is generally not the best choice for an EDC. But if you're going into the bush with nothing but a multi tool for a knife, locking blade is a must. However, if they have no interest in practicing survival, perhaps locking blades isn't really a requirement and could possibly be overlooked. Just not for me. Locking is a must. It might be noted that on the wingman I suggested, the blade is actually the only locking tool on it. When opened the other tools are firmly in place, but still if misused can cause the previously mentioned user error. However, when these tools are out and the handle is closed, they will only close to around a 90 degree angle, they won't be able to clamp down and close entirely should you be working and make a wrong move. Still able to pinch I would assume, I've not had them collapse on me yet with this tool.

Yeah, I completely agree with the "never cut towards yourself". First and foremost.

That's an impressive amount of replies.Tthank you so much.

All the answers and suggestions are more than welcome and even excellent. I've already decided on what I'll be getting. To clarify, I've decided to get a victorinox tinker and a rally due to a number of reasons.
-- My car keys have been lonely for long enough already and there are far worse things to spend money on than a cool keychain knife.
-- Price, the tinker S and the rally are both quite cheap. With the latter being just under 9 bucks I've seen keychains going for more than that at anime cons. And those were absolutely useless.
-- They're pretty, the victorinox design has at this point become iconic, and beautiful in its simplicity. What I mean is; I kinda dig it.
-- Last but not least: They're non threatening. From both its design and ubiquity I can empty my pockets and put the knife on top of a table for everyone to see, and no one would bat an eyebrow, other than to say "Is that one of those cool swiss army knives?". I somehow doubt I'd get the same reaction if I did the same with a Spyderco tenacious.

And as good as the swiss champ looks, it's overkil for what I want. And leathermans are cool and useful, but their utilitarian design doesn't appeal to me as much as the victorinox one.

Btw, that kershaw brawler looks absolutely gorgeous.

The Kershaw Skyline was the absolute best EDC blade I ever had.

It was in my pocket for more than 4 years throughout various jobs.

It was thin, light, took a fine edge, fast to open and locked up like bank vault.

I abused the shit out of it and the tip finally snapped because I was prying (which is a no no) stuff too much.

But hey 4 years of great service, it owed me fuck all after that.

Cannot recommend it enough.
Good choice. I would call it a light duty EDC tool. But to each his own and to his own needs especially.

That and people don't flip their shit at leatherman's and victornox. I can only imagine what people would think if I cut a tag off with a Cold Steel Ti Lite or Boker Bulldog.

Decent but not as good as the scissors on Gerber tools. I found their scissors to be the best.

I doubt it's correlated to a purely cultural level. More likely it's specific to the certain groups of artisans and their fields. There may be some advantages in the field or it may just be established practice and justified accordingly.

I hear Cold Steel is really good. I don't have one... they are very expensive blades.

http://www.coldsteel.com/

What ever philosophy helps you get the job done. Did he go by this or the blade away method? lol You stated that he "knew" Japanese artisans that have the opposite, but not which method he used. I'm curious of this idea though. Did he happen to mention any names of these artisans? I believe in trying to "better" my abilities, but I'm also a solid believer that nobody is perfect. Mistakes can and will happen. And yeah it's generally safety first for me. Nothing is 100% safe when working with knives but I've been cut more than enough times to know that I don't like it. Several times trying to use a tool and it fold shut on me pinching my finger and leaving a blood blister. Which is kind of like hitting your funny bone. It's funny for everyone around except yourself. Cuts I admit many have been at my own mistake, some being from blade failure. I'm extremely cautious, but I'm also hard on my gear to make sure it will hold up, so I need it to be strong.

BTW to the OP, I hope you're happy with whatever you decide on.

I have several cold steel blades and they are in deed expensive, but in my experience with them they are very durable. I often see people complain that the edge isn't up to par with their standards when they receive them though, but then again many people like a different edge. I like mine sharp enough to shave the hair off my arm. Not that I shave them, just as a test of sharpness. I don't much like the paper test myself, I don't know if mine just isn't sharp enough or I'm holding something wrong or what. lol But if I can shave with it, it's good enough for me.

http://www.coldsteel.com/Product/80PGTK/G_I_TANTO_W_SECURE-EX_SHEATH.aspx

That being the current cold steel blade I use for survival. I love it and would totally entrust my life with it in a real world survival situation. Aside from my trusty 12 gauge of course. But yeah, the cold steel is expensive. Some people consider them low end though. But they're within my budget and I've been happy with my use of them.

Cold Steel is total shit.
Their "swords" and "rapiers" are sword shaped axes that are made for cutting dead pigs in promo videos while looking all "butch" and are a real joke to every european martial artist.
Their knifes are not properly sharpened and too heavy. Their whole philosophy is based on show and not on efficiency, so I'd never buy something from them. Besides all the swords and rapiers I knew, I got a carbon-fiber walking stick from them that is supposed to be combat ready and it's so damn slow, that I'd rather use my self made wooden ones (with knob) for self-defense. They don't seem to have a single martial artist or blacksmith on board and it's all just for show.

He used the locally common way of moving the blade away from you of course.
It was about the use of firming chisels and since the structure of wood is always chaotic and you need a lot of pressure/impulse, I would strongly advise against the way of moving the blade towards you unless you plan on doing hara-kiri anyway. Moving the blade towards you gives you a bit more control but it's not worth it.
When it comes to saws, I only use Japanese ones though, the teeth are made for pull instead of push and have way more control without being a danger, doesn't mean I haven't got a big saw scar on my left hand, but that was just stupidity on my part and would have been even worse with a (European) blade for pushing.

First of all let it be known that I never have (and probably never will) owned a Cold Steel blade. That said I agree with that statement.
I googled the Ti Lite mentioned earlier and found this thing. It's supposed to be a promotional video, but is basically just a cringeworthy facepalm that made me embarrased to watch (that'd be Fremdschämen to germans, wouldn't it?).
When I saw that huge lardass in the mall cop uniform stabbing a bleeding mannequin with the sort of glee I'd expect from an Arkham asylum inmate, all seriousness flew out of the window. The video is obviously aimed at people that judge a knife's worth based on how far the blood splatters when they stab someone.

I can't judge on the quality of their products, but I can judge their marketing strategy. And frankly, seeing that video has put me off them on principle.

Considering with a Bowie you can do 4 slashes (front and back slash as the design's based on) within a second (with a little practice) the demonstration for cold steel is definitely a cringe worthy effort. Even more confusing is watching him try to chip away at a granite top as it doesn't appear he's making any headway except damaging the blade.

Well I've gone and done it. I've finally ordered them. With shipping included I'm getting both of them for a little under 30$.

Thanks to all for your opinions. Even when suggesting something more manly, everybody more or less agreed that victorinox is an excellent choice for a light duty EDC. Which convinced me that I was making the right choice.

Yeah Cold Steel has some super douchey marketing.

Can't say anything for the swords but some of the pocket knives are alright (well built but too bulky and not properly sharpened most of the time). The aesthetics are for the dogs, tacticool marketing ugh.

I prefer something that doesn't scream mall ninja.

Try Kershaw. More low key and less douchey marketing. I currently use a Cryo 2.

Hmm I almost wonder if i should have read the OP first...

What type of knife really depends on what you'll be using it for. But Dave Canterbury has some good recommendations.

1) Carbon Steel (stronger and you can throw sparks from a piece of flint/quarts, although it rusts easier so you have to care for it)
2) 90 degree edge on the spine (striking with flint or ferro rod, also used for debarking and other processing of wood)
3) 5 inches (at least), although he doesn't recommend past 7. Depends personal preference or how big your hands are.
4) Full Tang. If you end up batoning with it a rat-tail or folding they won't hold up to as much abuse.